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Donnhoff Felsenberg GG Riesling
A very old and famous site, splendidly located on a steep southern slope. The vines grow under extreme conditions in weathered volcanic porphyry soil. The stony ground heats quickly during the day, and that warmth produces characteristic Rieslings with a racy fruitiness and mineral acidity, internationally recognized for their distinctive flinty aromas. At the heart of this fantastic vineyard stands our Felsentürmchen (“small rock tower”). The mineral-rich Felsenberg grapes undergo an intense selective harvest and their wines bear the symbol of the Felsentürmchen.
If you are a terroir fundamentalist, then this enormous depth of smoky and wild-herb character will light your fire, but otherwise approach with caution. With the second and third sip you feel the attractive, grapefruity side of the wine. Then comes the paradox. There is also a touch of grapefruit-pith bitterness at the radically mineral finish, and this adds to the excitement. From organically grown grapes with Fair'n Green certification. Drink or hold.
98 points, Stuart Pigott - jamessuckling.com
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