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Rudolf Trossen Madonna Purus Riesling
Idiosyncratic, fascinating, outstanding and thrilling expressions from Mosel, Rudi Trossen marches to his own beat. The vineyards are excellent and tended organically, the wines, particularly under this ‘Purus’ label, see no additions including no sulphur. There are always so many dimensions to Trossen wines. This wine is born from a steep, slaty slope more or less across the river and opposite Trossen’s cellar.
It’s got width yet tension, succulence and freshness, a gummy feel to texture but a cut and thrust of acidity to close. Shut your eyes and sniff and you’re in the territory of butterscotch and sour lemon lollies with a whiff of something flinty in the mix. Flavours are more classic, albeit ripe, so you get lemon curd instead of lemon juice, dried apple and cloudy apple juice instead of the bite of fresh fruit, though a sense of minerality and an undertow of saline acidity are all there. It’s wonderful drinking all up – a tour de force from the variety and producer. 95 points - Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
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