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Domaine Sylvain Cathiard et Fils Vosne-Romanée 'En Orveaux' 1er Cru
The joy of this emanates from the ancient, 75 year+, vines from a great strain of pinot. Dense black centre with purple rim. Red and black fruit swells across the palate, a continuity of the nose, a little more density than some. Just a touch of a wood at the back, but exceptionally persistent and very pure fruit. Indeed the aftertaste refuses to die away. Bravo. 94-97 points, Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy
Badly hit by frost in 2016 but back to normal yields in 2017, this 75-year-old 0.3ha parcel is so special that it's the source of the domaine's massal selections. Bright, lively and refreshing, this wine really shows the influence of the nearby combe. It's floral and sweet, with tobacco and Asian spices, a lovely texture and beautifully integrated wood, 55% new. Drinking Window 2022 - 2030. 96 points, Tim Atkin MW, Decanter
The 2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru En Orveaux delivers a superb bouquet of cassis, wild damson, grilled squab, sweet soil tones, licorice and exotic spices. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and concentrated, with a lavish core of old vine fruit, succulent acids, and fine-grained structuring tannins, concluding with a long and dramatic finish. This cuvée, from seventy-year-old vines, is the insiders' choice for chez Cathiard this year. Sébastien Cathiard has produced some of the wines of the 2017 vintage, a stunning portfolio that vindicates his decision to harvest late this year. The rudiments of the approach are simple: meticulous viticulture—though not, I should add, especially low yields—and careful sorting, followed by complete destemming, macerations of 20-30 days and maturation in barrel from some 15-18 months. The impact of new oak, once a defining feature of the Cathiard style, is now significantly less obtrusive, a thoroughly positive evolution that's been in evidence over the last few vintages and which seems to have been consummated with a beautifully integrated range of 2017s. Unfortunately, the market has already taken notice, and these wines are scarce and expensive. What's more, the quality Cathiard has achieved with this vintage will only add fuel to the fire. 92-94 points, William Kelley, Robert Parkers’ The Wine Advocate
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