Domaine Moreau-Naudet Vielles Vignes 'Les Pargues' Chablis

6 + $73.80 each
12 + $68.47 each
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Les Pargues is a Chablis lieu-dit situated on a ridge between Montmains and Vosgros. It has the same exposure as the 1er Crus of Vaillons and Montmains, so it’s a very handy site. The story goes that this site was originally classified as a 1er Cru level vineyard (pre-AOC), before being largely abandoned during WWI (when there was a labour shortage). Regardless of this story, locals rightly speak very highly of this site. The vines in Moreau’s tiny parcel average 50-plus years old and 15-25 hl/ha is the normal yield.

In 2018 the surprise is a racy, crunchy and classic personality. I get none of the exotic notes mentioned by Galloni (which I assume were an early showing of this wine)—this is now all lemon pith and sherbetty tang. It’s actually tightly wound, with a long and racy close. This cuvée was the first to see a measure of neutral wood (10%) and was bottled separately, labelled as Vieilles Vignes on the back and Les Pargues on the front.

“The 2018 Chablis Vieilles Vignes Les Pargues is a rich wine with all of the gravitas that comes from the old vines; it is a wine of real substance. Tropical fruit, exotic floral notes and spice all emerge but it is the wine's vertical power and depth that stand out most.” 89-91 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous