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Comando G 'Rumbo Al Norte' Garnacha
The label, Comando G, comes from a Spanish 1980s cartoon based on “Science Ninja Team Gatchaman,” a Japanese anime series from the ‘70s. But just as important, the “G” could stand for Gredos, the region where they prospected for vineyards, and it could stand for garnacha.
Ten years ago, when Comando G was getting started, most of the garnacha wines in Spain were jammy, concentrated, oaky and alcoholic. The Comando G team looked for inspiration instead from France, where they found wines in a different style, like the legendary Châteauneuf-du-Papes of Château Rayas, made entirely of grenache and known for their subtle, intricate grace, and the exquisite Ceps Centenaires La Mémé cuvée from Domaine Gramenon, a producer in the Côtes du Rhône.
I hate a score of 99+, and I thought I'd never use it, but I'm using it in this 2020 Rumbo al Norte, as it's impossible to split hairs and reflect the nuance of this wine, which is above the 2019 vintage but does not quite reach the level of the 2018 or 2016, so the only thing left in between is a 99+. The grapes were pristine and perfect, and they got a little more of them, so they aged the wine in a 1,200-liter oak foudre. The wine is super pale, floral with notes of decayed rose petals, musk and herbs (tomato vine), with lots of cleanliness despite the initial faint reduction. It has energy and fine tannins that are gentler than those from Navatalgordo. This is a wine of peace, harmony and complexity, a wine that feels very complete. 1,406 bottles and 50 magnums produced. 99+ points - Luis Gutierrez - The Wine Advocate, May 2023.
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